Review: A Cretan culinary journey with Peter Conistis at Ammos, Brighton-Le-Sands

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To mark the first anniversary of Ammos at Novotel, Brighton-Le-Sands, Sydney, acclaimed Greek Australian chef Peter Conistis launched his much-anticipated regional dinner series with an unforgettable evening inspired by the flavours of Crete.

Held on Wednesday, July 9, the event transported guests to the sun-drenched island through a soulful five-course menu that honoured the island’s culinary traditions and celebrated the generosity and depth of its cuisine.

Conistis, known for pioneering modern Greek cuisine in Australia, delivered not only exquisite food but also a deeply personal tribute to Crete – a region he describes as “the birthplace of the original Mediterranean diet.” His dishes moved like “the melody of a song,” with each course showcasing the earthy simplicity and layered richness that define Cretan cooking.

The evening began with Dakos salad, featuring sweet tomatoes, anthotyri cheese, capers, and wrinkled Cretan olives (throubes) – a crisp, refreshing opener paired with a Seadrift Cretan Margarita infused with lime and chilli agave. From the first bite, it felt like being back in Greece.

Next came Soupies, tender braised cuttlefish with spinach, dill and spring onions, paired with Kolonne Null Riesling – a dish that captured both the ocean and the garden in perfect harmony. The non-alcoholic pairing option was a welcome inclusion, thoughtfully curated to elevate the experience for all guests.

Ammos

The third course was Apaki, Cretan cured pork loin served with herbed couscous, leeks and a rustic tomato pelte – rich and comforting, perfectly complemented by Kolonne Null Rosé.

But it was the Gamopilafo, the festive rice pilaf traditionally served at Cretan weddings, that stole the show. Made with lamb, goat, chicken and a velvety house-made staka, the dish was a masterclass in depth and celebration, bringing together flavours that felt both ancient and refined. It was paired with Kolonne Null Red, balancing the dish’s heartiness with a smooth finish.

Dessert was no less impressive: Kaltsounia, honey-laden Cretan cheese pastries paired with a rakomelo ice cream, served alongside a Seadrift Cretan Mule with non-alcoholic whisky, ginger ale, lime and bitters. The final course offered a warm, sweet ending to a truly transportive experience.

What set the evening apart wasn’t just the food, but the intimacy of the event. Guests had the rare chance to engage with Conistis himself, who shared personal reflections, culinary insights, and the stories behind each dish with heartfelt sincerity.

This dinner marked the first in a series of four regional Greek dinners at Ammos – and if the Cretan night was any indication, diners are in for something truly special.

Upcoming events in the series include:

  • Wednesday 23 July – “The Best of the Peloponnese”
  • Wednesday 13 August – “A Taste of Central Greece”
  • Wednesday 3 September – “Delights of the Ionian Islands”

Each dinner promises a new destination, a new set of flavours, and another chance to savour the passion and creativity of one of Australia’s most respected Greek chefs.

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