By Billy Cotsis
As has become the tradition, I made the trek to Latina America for Easter. In Santiago I stopped by a local Greek home as I’ve done before, meeting journalist Veronica Rabb Saitis, and her husband and family. This time I didn’t see the matriarch of the family Mrs María Eugenia Saitis Triantafilo, as she was at her own home. Veronica called her mum on WhatsApp. It was great to chat again, in Greek, and to wish this wonderful woman a Happy Easter.
Missing for me on the trip was the Greek Consul Manolis Andreasson, as he was away. The Consul remains in touch. His passion for Hellenism ensures Greece has kept him posted across South America for most of this century; the Consul supports Greek culture including providing lectures about Greece.
The Consul told me recently, “we have all worked hard to reactivate the Hellenic Community De Los Lagos in Puerto Montt of the Patagonia. It would be interesting for you to talk to their new President Nicolás Merino Kipreos.”
Mr Andreasson further told me that the Community in La Serena has produced “educational material in which the Greeks who fought for Chile in the naval battle of Iquique during the Pacific War are now being incorporated in the history subject in schools.” The president is Mrs Maria Cecilia Vargas Hantzinas.
Greek São Paulo
From Chile I made my way to rainy São Paulo; 26 million people, almost the population of Australia, it’s HUGE! Nestled amongst this population, there are perhaps 20,000 Greeks. Those with Greek heritage is likely 50,000 people.
The Vice President of COLETIVIDADE HELÊNICA DE SÃO PAULO is Christos Kritselis; he kindly met me again at Akropolis Resterante. Christos took me here in 2024, this is the oldest Greek eatery in Brasil, going back about six decades.
Christos and his brother have a family business within walking distance. A warehouse which is part of the fashion industry. The area is of course the old Greek neighbourhood. Christos explained how it was full of Greeks, Europeans and Jews last century especially during the 1950s-1980s. These days there are few Greeks in that area as many either returned to Greece or moved to other locations.
Christos and his brother are second generation Greeks. They keep the language alive and promote the culture as best as they can via the Community.
Christos reminded me that there was a Church service on, as it was a Wednesday of Holy Week.
Off I went to the home of COLETIVIDADE HELÊNICA which houses the Greek Orthodox Church. Once again, I met Father Vasilis who delivered a beautiful, spiritual service aligned with wonderful chanters. Father blessed the congregation, and I was grateful to meet his son and a range of other Greek speakers and Greek Orthodox adherents.
While the spiritual side of me was fulfilled, I found myself a driver. Elaine who is an expert in martial arts and was thoroughly intrigued by this Aussie Greek: Elaine drove me, Greek “business crawl” took hold. I found several, included one called Athos which may not even be Greek; Parada do Grego Gyrodiko in a chic hood, Fotopoulos which is owned by a third generation Greek and decked out like Greece; Myk which is as white as a Mykonos summer and upmarket; and the two Athenas restaurantes.
At one of the latter eateries, which is a busy three level restaurant, I caught up with my friend Michelle Gomes. We have been connected since 2013, my oldest friend in Brasil. We disagree on politics, yet we remain amigos/amigas. Michelle, who is also Indigenous, owns a handbag store, @mi.bolsas, at the dawn market shopping circuit. Michelle lives outside São Paulo, yet she made the effort to find me. In fact she was “mad” that I had intended to visit and not drop a line, which I did at the last minute. Michelle is one of the main reasons I became interested in Brasil years ago.
Michelle and Elaine have connected thanks to me, typical of the friendliness of Brasilians.
My trip to São Paulo wouldn’t have been complete without a visit to undoubtedly one of the best pizza places in the world, Giacobda & Helenica Pizzeria Grega, Brooklin.
The dozens of pizzas on the menu are all named for Greek places, people and Greek culture. While the restaurant is a decent size, it also has a venue out the back. On Fridays there is a Brasilian singer who sings Greek songs!
Helena Dimitriosis actually a lawyer. She retains her firm. Pizzeria Grega though is her passion and a promise she made to her parents. As we chatted it became clear that she is very much an “ambassador” for Hellenism. Many of the dough/pizza recipes go back almost a century to Rhodes.
Greek Rio
What took me to Rio after such a great trip? A plane naturally and one that was delayed! Thanks Latam for your “tradition” of delayed flights or cancelled ones! What else am I thankful for? The Greeks of Rio.
I arrived just in time to attend Good Friday and spend Saturday mass with the Greek congregation of Igreja Ortodoxa GregaSanto André Apóstolo.
My mum was upset that I chose Brasil again instead of celebrating with my own family. Yet the lure of the Americas and in particular this group of Gregos/Orthodox is hard to pass up.
This was my seventh trip to Brasil. The first few I was guided (appreciated) a Brasileira, Ana Marcia, who speaks Greek. The talented writer is from Sao Gonçalo, a favourite city of mine. Her two boys are of Greek heritage via a Greek-Brasilian father. Ana came with me the first time I visited the Church in 2020. I had also planned to Christen her youngest during the pandemic. Alas a Covid outbreak hit the congregation and the Church closed for several weeks, meaning I had departed Rio before it was reopened!
I celebrated Friday and Saturday with the Church. I’m welcomed like family.
Father Henrique Cairus is also a university professor. Father/Padre ensures that spirituality and culture are paramount, as he talks to me in Greek.
Sotiris is someone I first met in 2021. We reconnected at the Church service. He has been in Brasil for about two decades. Thanks to Sotiris, and Peter from Adelaide, I’ve met quite a few Gregos including George who was away in Greece for Easter and Babis who runs a business.
Sotiris along with his friend Marcelo own Marcelo & Sotiris, Kiosk 100 at Ipanema. Turns out I first encountered the Kiosk bar as a customer in 2020 with Ana Marcia. Small world. Sotiris and I caught up at the beach bar, and we explored Ipanema together. Turns out he lives near me in Copacabana
Sotiris, from Spetses originally, is of course well connected in Rio and his role is as independent concierge. He hosts Greeks and non Greeks year-round. From football matches to tours, Sotiris is the one to arrange it.
Via Sotiris and the Church, I also met the new VP of the Greek community, Lina who is from Greece
On Friday 17 April we went out to see Kyriacos Savva, from Cyprus. Kyriacos has previously opened two awesome Greek restaurants in Rio, including O Grego Copacabana which sadly closed its doors recently. This was one of the best Greek eateries in the Americas.
Sotiris, Brasilian born Babis and I attended a pre opening taste test of Kiriakos’ new eatery, Nilo in the aptly titled Nilopolis area. Brilliant opening night, full house and delicious.
Earlier that day I had a workout with Paulo (Pavlo) Fáveris, a third generation Greek. Paulo and his wife provide Greek dancing upon request. They are the arguably the best in Brasil. He is an awesome fitness instructor and he teaches Greek dance classes at the Greek Church.
Speaking of fitness, another friend I met in 2024, Ana Paula the footballer trained me in football. Im a keeper, competing with those half my age. She is brilliant, a striker who has played in Division One in Brasil, Turkey, Croatia, Morocco. I was that impressed, I will be supporting a beach football training business with the star player, likely to be called Ana Paula & Vasileios!
My hope is someone from the diaspora can provide some support to people such as Paulo to teach Greek dancing more widely, or to support the Church where Konstantinos would like to teach Greek! We need to get more resources here.
I trekked to the picturesque Vitoria, Espírito Santo, the tenth Brazilian state I’ve visited.
Sotiris introduced me to Kosmas the Greek. Couldn’t believe that in a small city, one that isnt well known, there is a small but very active Greek Community.
Kosmas not only operates his own Greek restaurant, he teaches Greek language and is a highly regarded Greek singer. Aside from Greek songs, Kosmas has also recorded Greek-Portuguese songs, which is unique for us Hellenes. I listened to a few of his songs and they’re great.
Kosmas has been in Brasil for almost two decades, opening the restaurant a decade ago. It sits by the water and is next to the COMUNIDADE HELENICA DO ESPÍRITO SANTO/Cultural Centre and the St George Greek Orthodox Church. The food was excellent, reminiscent of Greece. Kosmas even makes his own feta! The restaurant aesthetics Aegean style.
Kosmas explained that there are 100 Greeks who live in Vitoria and he has 70 students, most of whom are Brasilian!
Carnival in February is meant to be my final trip to Brasil; as always I met a bunch of worthy people and had a cultural experience with those I already knew. Im friends with Ana Paula the footballer. I will likely Christen her son Thomas in February, and I am about to “invest” in my second very small business venture in Brasil, which could mean I’m not done yet. I feel very spiritual here, feel my Greekness, meaning I may keep visiting beyond February. Then again Latam is painful and a costly ticket, and there are places in Central Asia waiting for myself and colleagues as we set about a process to make a documentary there. Will see, from Brasil, boa noite and to the whose who work hard to keep Hellenism alive, houngans my respect, Obrigado.
Greeks South America film:
*Billy Cotsis is the author of 1453: Constantinople & the Immortal Rulers
