Brothers Harry and Mario Kapoulas to open gritty, raw Athenian taverna in The Shire

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A pair of Shire icons will bring a gritty Greek taverna reminiscent of the lively, casual eateries that line the edgy streets of Athens to Cronulla next month, adding another element to the area’s burgeoning dining scene.

Long-time hospitality operators and brothers Harry and Mario Kapoulas will open Homer Rogue Taverna on the ground floor of a new residential development around the corner from their famed Ham cafe, which has been a gathering place for locals since it opened in 2009.

Named after the man credited as being the world’s first poet – not the Simpsons character – the 100-seat venue will offer a relaxed take on Greek dining, with graffitied walls, non-uniformed staff, a plethora of freshly-cooked meat, seafood and vegetables, and a pizza oven cooking up traditional flatbread.

Guests will be able to handpick their own, predominantly Greek, wines from custom-built fridges, with a large selection to be available by the glass, so people can try a range of different varietals.

Harry and Mario Kapoulas with parents Kitty and Peter. Image: Aislinn Walker

In a unique design twist, the space will be completely open-plan, with a bar located along the back wall rather than the traditional separation of front-of-house staff and diners.

Harry says he and Mario – the pair of which also co-own Rushi cafe and previously ran C.C. Babcoq – have been wanting to open a taverna for a long time.

“Greek food is part of who we are. It’s what we’ve grown up with, what we still choose to eat and we want to share it with people,” he says.

“The inspiration for Homer is similar to how we felt before we opened Ham. There was a need for that kind of cafe in Cronulla, so we decided to create it and provide locals with something they hadn’t experienced before.

“This time we’re creating something we hope will appeal to both locals and Sydney diners. Just like some of our counterparts have done in recent times, with places like Fior and Pino’s, we want to raise the culinary bar in The Shire and put it on the map for food, not just our beaches.”

While Sydney’s love for Greek food has reached fever pitch over the past year, Harry says Homer Rogue Taverna will be different to anything else that’s on offer across the city.

“It seems like whenever anyone opens a Greek restaurant, it comes with that island-inspired white and blue and refined touches that are indicative of waterside dining in places like Mykonos,” he says.

“Athens isn’t like that. It’s a cool, gritty city and it’s the tavernas that make it that way.

“They’re accessible, affordable and raw – people can come as they are to eat, drink, talk and have fun, without any pretentiousness.”

It’s that relaxed approach that Harry believes will align perfectly with The Shire.

“Cronulla is a laid back surf town,” he says.

“We want people to feel comfortable to wander up from the beach, without feeling like they have to go home to get changed, but knowing they’ll be getting restaurant-quality food and wine.”

Sydney chef James Watson (ex-The Italian Stallion and Peacock Trattoria) is also involved in the project and will head up the kitchen alongside Harry and Mario.

Homer Rogue Taverna will be located at 3/3 Surf Rd and will open for dinner from Wednesday to Sunday, and for lunch from Friday to Sunday.

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