A new establishment has emerged in the heart of Brunswick: a veritable ark of repurposed nostalgia, with furniture straight from Maria Vamvakinou’s living room.
It’s called Patris, in honour of the ship that brought Maria and so many other migrants to Australian shores, and it is a captivating, and perhaps deliberately provocative, collision of migrant history, considered kitsch, and culinary fusion.
Step inside, and you’re immediately immersed in a meticulously curated chaos. Reclaimed wood and industrial interiors sit alongside resurrected relics from a grandmother’s attic – think velvet-upholstered armchairs with dubious provenance and side tables that seem to whisper tales of bygone eras. The walls are a gallery of contradictions: metallic Seventies decor juxtaposed with abstract prints and paintings, many created by Cypriot artist Michalis Michael, co-owner of Patris along with his children, Stella and Stavros Michael and son-in-law Johnny Hasan.
A visual feast designed to both stimulate and disorient. The culinary offerings, naturally, are equally ambitious. Maria and Michalis’ son, Stavros, marathon runner and chef, presides over a kitchen where global flavours collide with reckless abandon.
“We’re not playing it safe,” confides son-in-law Johnny, with a hint of both pride and trepidation. “We’re doing pig and tomato chutney, chickpea salad, and this insane chili oil and mushroom pâté.”
Imagine Cypriot loukanika, the cured meat staple, reimagined as a fig and tomato chutney toastie, a culinary tightrope walk that could either soar or plummet.
A few minutes later, he is serving delectable bite-sized pavlovas to guests, because Australia is also integral to Patris’ multicultural offerings.
The name itself, “Patris,” is a knowing wink to Melbourne’s past, a nod to the Greek ocean liner that ferried thousands of migrants to Australian shores after World War II. For many, it’s a vessel of memory, a floating symbol of hope and hardship. Here, however, it’s also a brand, a carefully crafted narrative woven into the very fabric of the space.
Ahmet Keskin, a prominent figure in intercultural dialogue, lends an air of gravitas to the Open Day.
“Getting migrant communities to Australia and promoting the Australian identity is vital,” he states.
Patris does this authentically, and fills with locals, friends, and even young entrepreneurs such as 13-year-old Sylvana Tramontana, whose little biscuit jars are on sale for $25.
“It began as a project and gifts for teachers, and now I sell them,” she says, with her proud mother adding that she earned $5,000 in November-December from market sales.
Though not a social enterprise, Patris has a social conscience, paying homage to Christos Tsirkas with a frame on a bench in his honour, and even an International Women’s Day event on March 8 featuring some of the Greek community’s most powerful and unassuming women, hosted by Greek Community of Melbourne Vice President Anthea Sidiropoulos. The panel includes former minister Jenny Mikakos, Deputy Mayors Emily Dimitriadis (Darebin) and Helen Politis, and of course Ms Vamvakinou.
Patris is already making waves, and Brunswick is watching. Open from 9am to 2pm from Thursday to Sunday and for books and special occasions. Located at 140 Barkly Street, Brunswick.
*All photos copyright The Greek Herald / Mary Sinanidis.
