One of Sydney’s longest-running Greek restaurants, Diethnes, will close its doors at the end of May, bringing to a close more than seven decades of family-run hospitality in the heart of the city.
Located at 336 Pitt Street, the restaurant has been a familiar fixture in Sydney’s CBD since 1977 and a beloved gathering place for generations of diners seeking traditional Greek cuisine.
Its final day of trade is scheduled for May 30, according to owner John Ventouris, who confirmed the difficult decision in an exclusive interview with The Greek Herald.
“I’ve been working here since I was 16,” Mr Ventouris said, explaining that he and his wife took over the restaurant from his father and uncle in 2000. “It’s very emotional. The restaurant has gone through three generations – and now it’s coming to an end.”
Forced to close after redevelopment plans
The closure is not voluntary. Mr Ventouris said the restaurant has been forced to vacate as the building is set to be redeveloped. The family has operated on a month-to-month lease for nearly a decade, always aware the day might eventually come.
“We knew that day was going to come,” he said. “We just didn’t know when.”
Relocating the restaurant has proved unrealistic so far. With rents for suitable premises reaching hundreds of thousands of dollars annually — alongside the cost of fitting out a new venue — Mr Ventouris said the financial risk was simply too high.
“You’re looking at around $750,000 a year in rent, plus millions to set up again,” he said. “At my age now, do I really want to go into more debt to open another restaurant?”
A restaurant built on migration and family
Diethnes’ story mirrors the history of Greek migration to Australia.
The restaurant was established in 1952, during a period when Greek migrants were beginning to shape Sydney’s hospitality scene. Its modern chapter began in 1967, when Phillip — who had migrated to Australia from the Cyclades — joined the business.
Like many migrants of his generation, Phillip started at the bottom, working as a kitchen hand before eventually becoming the restaurant’s owner. Under his leadership, Diethnes developed into a well-known city dining room and moved to its current Pitt Street location in 1977.
Today, the next generation has carried on that legacy. Mr Ventouris has sought to preserve the atmosphere and traditions that defined the restaurant, keeping its focus firmly on home-style Greek cooking and hospitality.
Inside the dining room, nostalgic décor evokes a classic Athenian taverna, while the menu has long centred on familiar staples such as roast lamb, moussaka and spanakopita.
For many customers, the appeal of Diethnes went beyond the food.
“All my customers come here because it feels like home,” Mr Ventouris said. “They feel comfortable — it’s familiar.”
Changing city, changing dining habits
Mr Ventouris believes the closure also reflects broader shifts in Sydney’s dining culture and the changing character of the CBD.
The pandemic significantly reduced foot traffic as more people began working from home, while the cost-of-living pressures and rising debt levels have also affected dining habits.
“There’s not the same foot traffic anymore,” he said.
At the same time, tastes within the restaurant industry have evolved.
“I think traditional cuisines are going out,” Mr Ventouris said. “People are looking for modern Greek cuisine now.”
The restaurant’s once-loyal customer base has also changed over time.
“Many of our customers have retired or passed away,” he said. “The younger generation are busy and they don’t want to travel into the city anymore.”
The end of a family chapter
The decision to close is particularly difficult because the restaurant will not continue into another generation. Mr Ventouris and his wife have four children, but none are planning careers in hospitality.
“We couldn’t pass it on to anyone,” he said.
For now, the plan after closing is simple: take a break.
Mr Ventouris said he and his wife intend to take a long holiday before deciding what the future might hold.
“Nothing is certain,” he said. “Maybe down the track we open again. Maybe there will be another Diethnes.”
Until then, the restaurant’s final weeks will likely draw many longtime patrons hoping to share one last meal in a place that, for decades, embodied the warmth of Greek hospitality in Sydney.
