For restaurateur Angie Giannakodakis, the launch of Taverna as a permanent restaurant is a homecoming in more ways than one, according to theage.com.au
Originally conceived as a pop-up with Guy Holder in late 2024, Taverna is a heartfelt tribute to her Greek heritage and parents. It follows the closure of her acclaimed Carlton restaurant, Epocha, after 12 years. But its new home in Brunswick East is also deeply familiar—she helped establish George Calombaris’ original Hellenic Republic at the very same site years ago.
“It was quite emotional stepping into that space, I’m pinching myself a little bit every day,” says Giannakodakis to the age.
Located on Lygon Street, the restaurant has been transformed into an inviting Greek haven, with crisp white and Aegean blue hues, Baltic pine tables, earthenware pots, and rattan light fixtures. It embodies the warmth of home-style cooking and philoxenia—Greek hospitality’s spirit of welcoming strangers.
“It’s more than a restaurant,” she says. “When my mum, the matriarch of our family, entered care after a fall, I realised how much her food represented love and survival. Taverna is … my way of honouring her and my dad.”
Her mother’s recipes appear on the menu, including horta (seasonal greens), keftethes (pan-fried meatballs), and Katina’s moussaka when eggplant is in season. Other highlights include arni kleftiko (slow-cooked lamb shoulder), Corfiot pastitsada (beef ragu with macaronia pasta), and vegetarian options like revithokeftethes (chickpea fritters) and silky fava with Cretan olive oil.
As Melbourne’s Greek dining scene flourishes, Giannakodakis remains a pioneer. “You put 10 good Greek restaurants in Melbourne, I don’t think that’s enough any way.”
For dessert? Fresh watermelon or a sundae of kataifi, mastic ice cream, and seasonal sorbet. You’ll have to wait for the liquor licence to sip her signature blue-tinged Aegean Negroni.
Source: theage.com.au
