After eight years of negotiations, the newly signed Australia–EU Free Trade Agreement is being hailed as a landmark economic win – but for Greek Australians and local dairy producers, one word stands at the centre of the debate: feta.
While the deal, signed by Prime Minister Anthony Albanese and European Commission President Ursula von der Leyen in Canberra, is expected to deliver billions in economic benefits, it also locks in the European Union’s strict protections over certain food names – known as geographical indications (GI).
Among them is “feta,” a term long used by Australian producers, many of them from Greek migrant backgrounds who have made the cheese a staple of local food culture.
Under the agreement, feta will not disappear overnight. Instead, it will be subject to “grandfathering” provisions and a lengthy phase-out period. This means existing producers in Australia who already use the name can continue to do so for a defined period, recognising their established presence in the market. However, new producers will not be able to adopt the name, and over time, its use will be restricted -particularly in export markets, where EU rules will apply more strictly.
The outcome reflects a compromise after years of negotiation. While some names have been secured for ongoing use – such as “parmesan” and “kransky”, and “prosecco” for domestic wine sales – others, including feta, gruyere and romano, will gradually be phased out.
Despite the sensitivities around naming rights, von der Leyen emphasised the broader economic significance of the agreement.
“This agreement is set to add almost $8 billion to your GDP,” she said. “It will become easier for Australia to export to the European Union based on high standards.”
“All Australian industrial goods exports to the European Union will become tariff-free, and Australian citizens will have more opportunities to provide their high-quality services to the European Union,” she added.
For many in the Greek Australian community, however, the feta decision carries cultural weight beyond its economic implications. The product is not just a commodity, but a symbol of heritage – brought to Australia by generations of migrants who adapted traditional methods to a new homeland.
Albanese acknowledged this connection, pointing to the role of migration in shaping Australia’s food identity. “Whether it’s Greeks coming here and creating feta, Italians doing parmesan, or people from eastern Europe doing kransky sausages, those things represent a connection with Europe,” he said.
Yet despite that recognition, the agreement ultimately aligns Australia with European standards on origin-based food naming, prioritising the protection of regional identity over long-standing international usage.
For consumers, the deal may bring lower prices on European imports such as wine, chocolate and pasta, as tariffs are removed. But for producers of feta in Australia, it signals a gradual shift – one that will require rebranding, adaptation, and, for some, a rethinking of how tradition is carried forward.
