By David Tsirekas
There’s something special about arriving in Athens just before lunch, when the city is at its calmest. Sea salt softens the air, cutting through diesel fumes and the occasional ghost of cigarette smoke—not as strong as it once was, but still lingering just enough to remind you where you are. The infamous north wind, O Boreas, carries with it the perfume of bougainvillea, jasmine and citrus blossom as it clears the sky.
On a recent trip escorting a client through the city, I arrived with a clear purpose: to write a guide for Australians preparing to migrate to Greece for the summer—especially those making the annual pilgrimage from Melbourne, Sydney and beyond. While many will naturally be drawn to the familiarity of the islands, this guide is a gentle nudge to spend more time in the capital; an invitation to look past the usual tourist traps. Athens, in its working, living form outside the peak season, has stories to tell—and they’re being told through kitchens, wine bars and late afternoon tables.
We came not just to eat and drink (though that we did with great pleasure), but to see Athens as it lives and breathes beyond the postcard myths and island clichés. To understand how Greek hospitality truly operates—in its natural rhythm, in the quieter months.
Being far from the motherland, whether in Sydney, Chicago or Melbourne—or anywhere the Greek diaspora has taken root—it’s easy to lose sight of how Greece itself has evolved. Diaspora cuisine, beautiful as it is, has become a time capsule. Many of us inherited traditions preserved by grandparents who migrated after the wars of the early and mid-20th century. These traditions were sacred, and so they were frozen. Flavours, rituals and rhythms were lovingly held onto, but not allowed to move forward. Greece, meanwhile, kept living—and nowhere is that more evident than in Athens.
This new Athens isn’t turning its back on tradition—it’s expanding it. Young chefs, winemakers and bartenders are no longer chasing foreign trends. They’re diving deep into their roots, reclaiming lost techniques, reviving ancient varietals, and doing so with design, intent and confidence. They are not nostalgic. They are current. And in doing so, they are helping all of us in the diaspora rediscover what Greece truly tastes like today.
Our four-day journey took us across the city—from old fish tavernas to wine bars pouring natural varietals, from open-fire kitchens to narrow laneways humming with vinyl and citrus peels. Each stop was a reflection of where Greek hospitality has come from—and where it’s going.
Semeli Tsipouradiko
Serron 67, Koridallos 18120
@semelitsipouradiko
A spontaneous start in Nikaia, Semeli immediately immersed us in old-school taverna life. The shaded courtyard hummed with quiet ease. Simple grilled sardines, chunky hand-cut fries cooked in olive oil, and tsipouro that needed no introduction. You don’t come here for plating or posture—you come to reconnect with the Athens many overlook. Rumour has it the same family has run the place for generations, holding strong to both their weekday regulars and weekend wanderers.
Souvlaki H Volvi
Evripidou 24, Athens 10551
@souvlakivolvi
Tucked among hanging lamb heads, glistening livers and the fragrant chaos of the Central Market, Volvi is the souvlaki spot you visit after wandering through Athens’ gutsiest shopping precinct. The sign says it all: no fries, no tzatziki, no ketchup. Just mustard, tomato, parsley and bukovo, wrapped in a proper warm pita, with grilled skewers that feel made to cut through the cold morning air. Sharp, honest and totally unfussed—exactly what you want after haggling for herbs and tripe.
Manari Taverna
Plateia Agion Theodoron 3, Athens 10561
@manaritaverna
Chef Aris Vezene’s ode to the village taverna, planted in the heart of the city. Fire pit aromas, rustic chairs, stone walls and rooms that feel like they’ve always been there. The salad—crisp, unassuming, bitter and textural—was talked about for days. Dressed with restraint, served with quiet confidence. Known for blending genres from Japanese to Greek, Vezene makes his most personal statement yet with Manari.
The Clumsies
Praxitelous 30, Athens 10561
@the_clumsies
Globally awarded yet effortlessly intimate, this cocktail bar shifts in mood and tone from room to room. Whether you’re in the garden, by the hearth, or seated at the main bar, the drinks are inventive, the staff intuitive, and the energy unmistakably Athenian. Their take on a Greek Spritz—vermouth made in-house, with grapefruit oil and gentian—is worth seeking out.
Geko
Mitropoleos 54, Athens 10563
@gekoathens
Chic and unashamedly theatrical, Geko is Athens’ answer to high-end Mediterranean dining with the atmosphere dialled all the way up. Hot pita arrives like a gift, and the wine list leans clean and Greek-forward. Their signature hummus with pine nuts and sumac was rich yet balanced. Expect glamour, but also tight kitchen execution. It’s where locals go when they want to impress.
Ouzeri Lesvos
Benaki 38, Athens 10678
@ouzeri_lesvos
An old-school ouzeri buzzing with tsipouro-fuelled laughter and music that spills into the street. Prawn saganaki, grilled octopus, and friendly chaos. A living postcard, where every table holds a story. Regulars say it’s one of the last places where the spirit of 1970s Plaka mezedopoleia still thrives.
Seychelles
Kerameikou 49, Athens 10436
@seychellesrestaurant
Tucked into a quiet square, Seychelles blends comfort with clarity. Mussels with silverbeet, hilopites with slow-braised beef cheek, and a dessert that channels Northern Greek tradition—halva infused with warm mastiha notes. This neighbourhood bistro has the bones of a taverna and a soul all its own. Known for letting seasonal greens take the spotlight.
Taverna Ton Filon
Argous 66, Athens 10441
@tavernatonfilon
Taverna Ton Filon is a quiet beacon of neighbourhood warmth. The langoustine tartare was one of the best bites of the trip, but it’s the genuine, familial hospitality that stays with you. Fish with white beans had both elegance and depth, and their custard pear dessert surprised everyone at the table, it was unpretentious and deeply satisfying. It’s the kind of place where you can lose track of time and still feel like you’ve come home.
Ta Karamanlidika Tou Fani
Sokratous 1 & Evripidou 52, Athens 10552
@ta_karamanlidika_tou_fani
Part Byzantine deli, part Constantinopolitan meze haven, Karamanlidika bridges the past and present with charm. Cured meats hang like icons, cheeses glisten behind glass, and the plates come with a story every time. Their pastourma and cheese rolls are near legendary, and the round-cut fries alone are worth a detour. The space itself feels like a hybrid between an old merchant hall and modern meze bar, a fitting tribute to the roots of Anatolian-Greek flavours and hospitality. It’s a stop that leaves you fed, comforted, andcurious about your own food history.
Drunky Goat
Kolokotroni 57, Athens 10560
@drunkygoatathens
Drunky Goat serves as a welcoming first step into Athens’ growing wine scene. Stylish without intimidation, it offers a strong selection by the glass, with an easy-to-navigate menu that makes it a perfect entry point for those new to Greek wine. Mezedes are simple but satisfying, and the crowd is young, international, and open-hearted. A dependable stop to begin or end the night, or simply to linger without needing to rush.
Achilleas
Valtetsiou 44, Exarchia, Athens
A mageria that hasn’t changed with the decades and thank God for that. There are hundreds of these throughout the city and most of them haven’t evolved and still keep their rustic charm. Gemista, lahanodolmades and orzo cooked just right. It’s home food in the heart of anarchist Athens. Still relevant because it never tried to be. A favourite among nearby artists and poets, they’ve never printed a menu, and never needed to. Also one of the one places always recommended by taxi drivers for their pitagyro.
Pharaoh
Solomou 54, Athens 10682
@pharaohathens
Chef Manolis Papoutsakis is quickly becoming one of the darlings of modern Greek cuisine. Originally acclaimed for his restaurants in Thessaloniki, especially for reimagining Cretan dishes with clarity and refinement, he brings that same spirit to Pharaoh. Rooster with pasta, beets with yoghurt, mushroom stew, all plated with intention and zero pretence. No signs, no slogans. Just locals who know and visitors who wish they’d come sooner. It’s a temple to restrained indulgence, and the soundtrack alone deserves a playlist.
Nolan
Voulis 31-33, Athens 10557
@nolanrestaurant
A sleek hybrid of Greek-Japanese influences, Nolan has long been a darling of the new Athenian dining wave. With chef Sotiris Kontizas at the helm, dishes feel confident and globally fluent—sea bream sashimi with olive oil, steamed buns with local meats, and greens treated with the same respect as protein. It’s compact, always buzzing, and best approached with an open mind and a couple of hours to spare.
Ex Machina
Empedokleous 34, Athens 11636
@exmachina.athens
Part bistro, part experimental lab, Ex Machina is quietly redefining what a neighbourhood kitchen can be. You’ll find wild greens with tahini, lentils cooked like risotto, and pork chops grilled with the confidence of a backyard dad but the touch of a sommelier. The wines lean low intervention, the lighting is low, and the vibe says stay a while.
Baba Au Rum
Klitiou 6, Athens 10560
@baba_au_rum
One of Athens’ most internationally acclaimed bars, Baba Au Rum has earned its place in the World’s 50 Best Bars list year after year, celebrated for its playful sophistication and devotion to rum. Even in winter, the crowd spills out into the street, turning this quiet laneway into a rhythmic hub of chatter, clinking glasses, and perfectly balanced cocktails. It’s moody, rum-heavy, citrus-laced, and effortlessly cool. The menu reads like a novella, with every drink having a story. A perfect late-night hideaway just a few metres off Ermou that feels part Havana, part Psyrri, and fully Greek in heart.
Barro Negro Athens
Ioannou Paparrigopoulou 15, Athens 10561
@barronegroathens
A love letter to agave in a city obsessed with tsipouro. This tequila and mezcal bar is dark, sexy, and undeniably modern. The bartenders walk you through the shelves like librarians of liquor, and the crowd is a mix of local creatives and global nomads. Their mole-inspired bar snacks are surprisingly good, especially the grilled corn with feta crema.
Birdman
Voulis 35, Athens 10557
@birdmanathens
In the heart of what locals call Athens’ informal ‘Chinatown’ or Southeast Asian quarter, home to a growing number of Thai grocers, noodle houses, and sushi bars, Birdman sits as a leader of the precinct’s transformation into a culinary hotbed. Aris Vezene’s street-style Tokyo grill is as bold as it is refined. Think wagyu tartare with soy and yuzu, pork skewers grilled on binchotan, and a soundtrack that bounces from lo-fi hip hop to vintage house. This isn’t just a concept, it’s a tightly run theatre of fire, salt, and acid. Birdman is unapologetically niche, and all the better for it.
Ekiben
Valaoritou 37, Athens 10557
@ekiben.athens
Just up the road from Birdman in the same bustling enclave, Ekiben feels like it belongs in Tokyo’s back alleys,; tiny, focused, and full of energy. This is Athens’ slickest bento bar, and it delivers. Pork katsu sandwiches are crisp and generous, soba noodle bowls are clean and umami-rich, and service is tight. It’s takeaway with discipline, and a rare local crowd that appreciates Japanese flavours done well. Just next door, the Record Lounge hums upstairs with crackling vinyl and candlelight. Expect Sade, soft disco, and cocktails leaning toward classics with subtle surprises.
Sushimou
Skoufou 6, Athens 10557
@thalis
Tucked in a narrow street behind Syntagma, Sushi Mou is Athens’ most exclusive sushi counter, with just a few seats and a menu that changes daily depending on what arrives from the port. It is helmed by Greek-Japanese chef Antonis Drakoularakos, a native son of both cultures who studied his craft in Tokyo and brought it home with reverence. There’s no social media, no signage, and no pretense—just the quiet precision of a chef serving omakase with soul.
Tanini Agapi Mou
Ippokratous 91 and Methonis, Athens
@tanini_agapi_mou
A bar that wears its passion for tannins on its sleeve, “Tanini, My Love” brings structure and soul to every glass poured. Minimalist in decor, maximalist in mood, the wine list favours Greek varietals with grip and attitude. It’s a place where conversations go long, and time seems to slow down to match the swirl of an orange wine in the candlelight.
Gamay
Zoodochou Pigis 42, Athens
@gamay_winebar
Named after the playful French grape but proudly local in spirit, Gamay is a wine bar built for the thirsty and curious. But the name carries an extra wink for Greek speakers too, as ‘gamay’ in slang is a word loaded with a bit more bite—it’s cheeky, bold, and irreverent, much like the bar itself. The vibe leans left of centre, with retro furniture, records spinning, and a clientele that ranges from sommeliers to skaters. Their snacks are clever and seasonal, and the wine list isn’t long but it’s deeply personal.
Stou Lou
Konstantinoupoleos Avenue 104, Athens
@stou.lou
A humble taverna that feels like it could be in any Greek village, except this one is tucked beside a busy road in central Athens. The food is unfussy and rich with flavour—think stewed okra, lemony goat, and rough-cut potatoes. The regulars are loyal, and the welcome is warm. This is Athens off the grid.
Leloudas 1928
Salaminias 8-10, Athens
@leloudas1928
A working-class classic that has somehow remained untouched by time and trend. Leloudas serves hearty, deeply nostalgic food; soutzoukakia that taste like Sunday lunch, fasolada that hits with comfort, and thick-cut bread that demands dipping. Its tiled floors and no-frills charm remind you that greatness doesn’t always need reinvention.
Yperokeanio
Marias Chatzikiriakou 48, Piraeus
Hidden in the backstreets of Piraeus, this taverna honours the maritime soul of the port. Fried red mullet, raw sea urchin, and cold white wine make up a typical lunch. Fishermen eat here. So do chefs. It’s seafood without selfies, and if you’re lucky, the owner will pull up a chair and pour you a glass.
Epta Martyres
Menaichmou 3B, Athens
@eptamartyes.athens
With sweeping Acropolis views and a calm elegance, Epta Martyres feels like a city escape without ever leaving the city. Their fish is always fresh, their grilled greens seasoned just right, and their tomato salad tastes like it still has morning dew on it. Come just before sunset and let the city change colour around you.
Kalamakia O Elvis
Ermou 112, Monastiraki, Athens 10563
Once a cult favourite tucked away in Kerameikos, Kalamakia O Elvis has relocated to the bustling Ermou Street, bringing its rock ‘n’ roll charm to a broader audience. While some purists may miss the original spot’s intimate vibe and Elvis memorabilia, the new location continues to serve up some of the city’s most beloved souvlaki. Expect perfectly grilled skewers, crispy chips, and a nostalgic nod to the King himself, all in the heart of Athens.
Cinapos
Iraklidon 10, Athens 11852
@cinapos
A gorgeous fit-out that balances sleek marble with warm wood, Cinapos blends nostalgia with refinement. Their pickled vegetable plate sets the tone, and from there, the kitchen pushes tradition with precision—horta with egg and ricotta, moussaka reimagined in clay, and desserts that walk the line between comfort and elevation. A number of diaspora tavernas, especially some new openings in Sydney, have clearly drawn inspiration from here. This is a dining room where both locals and out-of-towners lean in for something familiar but done just a little differently.
Hotel Grande Bretagne – Alexander’s Bar
Vasileos Georgiou 1, Athens
@hotelgrandebretagne
You’re here for elegance. Wood-panelled walls, deep leather seating, and a bar that has been whispered about for decades. The bartenders here move like ballet dancers, and whether you order a tsipouro or a Manhattan, it will arrive with ceremony. A nod to old Athens, still polished and glowing.
Walk In Bar
Mavromichali 56, Athens
@walkin.athens
Casual, stripped back, and quietly confident, Walk In is part bottle shop, part cocktail bar. The menu changes with the seasons, and the vibe with the day. From bitter-forward drinks to chilled retsina, it’s a place where locals meet before dinner or drift in after a show.]
Meigma
Megalou Alexandrou 114, Athens
@meigma_athens
A fresh addition to the Athens food scene, Meigma lives up to its name. Inspired by Athenian street food and European bistronomy, the result is a menu that feels rooted and restless at once. Think beef cheeks with lentils, or wild greens turned into modern pies. A space full of intent and forward motion. The name means ‘mixture’, and that’s exactly what this modern eatery offers.
Taverna Aoritis
Maiandrou 15, Athens
@taverna_aoritis
Rooted in Cretan flavours with a contemporary lens, Aoritis is slow food served fast. Dakos comes dressed in heirloom tomatoes, lamb is slow-roasted with orange zest and cinnamon, and the wine list champions lesser-known Cretan varietals. A tribute to Crete, in the rhythm of Athens.
Monk Grapes and Spirit
Lazaraki 26, Glyfada
@monk.gastrobar
Further south in Glyfada, Monk combines Mediterranean ingredients with a mixologist’s touch. You’ll find fermented beetroot with soft cheese, cocktails spiked with rosemary smoke, and a crowd that knows how to linger. It’s a modern monastery of good taste, well worth the pilgrimage.
Oinoscent
Voulis 45-47, Athens 10557
@oinoscent
Oinoscent is a pioneer in the modern Greek wine movement. Its list dives deep into the country’s lesser-known varietals, and the sommelier-led service makes even the most obscure bottle approachable. The space is elegant but not stiff, and their cheese plate is always on point. This is where the natural wine conversation in Athens really began.
Heteroclito
Fokionos 2, Athens
@heteroclitoathens
A laneway favourite that captures the romance of Athens in a wine glass. Tiny tables spill out onto the footpath and all the action is on the street, where the sound of clinking glasses and laughter makes it feel like a block party in slow motion. Upstairs, there are tucked away little lounges that feel like the good room at your family home, the one reserved for namedays, aunties from abroad, and guests your parents actually respected. The wine list is extensive and passionate about it, with small-batch producers, obscure varietals, and staff who talk about wine like they’ve known the bottle since birth. It’s a place to sip, talk, and watch the city pass by. No pressure, just presence.
Wine is Fine
Vissis 6, Athens
@wineisfine.athens
This playful and intimate wine bar knows how to read the room. No printed list—just a chat with the staff, a peek at the fridge, and something good appears in your glass. From natural Greek pet-nats to rare mainland reds, it’s smart without being smug, and soulful without the fluff.
Gallina
Markou Botsari 49, Athens 11742
@gallina.athens
This Neos Kosmos favourite blends countryside comfort with bistro chic. The chicken is, as the name promises, a star—grilled, roasted, or fricassée. But it’s the sides that surprise; horta with pistachio vinaigrette, and tarama that’s been whipped into silk. The room is light-filled, the plating precise, but the vibe remains utterly Greek.
Linou Soumbasis Kai Sia
Melanthiou 2, Psirri, Athens 10554
@lsandsia
This was, without question, the standout of the entire trip. Tucked into a quiet Psirri corner, Linou Soumbasis Kai Sia manages to be both rustic and refined, humble and exacting. The chef, whose work speaks louder than any press, delivers dishes with clarity and precision—standouts include the tarama with craft pita, langoustine, aged tuna carpaccio, and oysters that left us stunned. The space is full, the energy alive, and yet the service never falters. It was our final stop, and somehow, it said everything Athens is becoming.
Jazz In Jazz
Dinokratous 4, Kolonaki, Athens 10675
Tucked away in the refined streets of Kolonaki, Jazz In Jazz is a portal to another era. With its dim lighting, vintage decor, and walls adorned with jazz memorabilia, stepping inside feels like entering a 1930s speakeasy. The bar boasts an extensive whiskey selection, catering to both connoisseurs and curious newcomers. The ambiance is intimate, often filled with the soft hum of jazz tunes and the clink of glasses. It’s a haven for those seeking a sophisticated escape from the modern hustle.
Ta Akra
Amynta 12, Pangrati, Athens 11635
In the heart of Pangrati, Ta Akra is a prime example of Athens’ new dining rhythm. Run by chefs Yannis Loukakis and Spyros Pediaditakis, it offers a stripped-back, ingredient-led experience where the kitchen and floor space dissolve into one shared energy. The menu changes daily depending on what’s at its freshest, and there’s a quiet confidence in its zero-waste approach, every ingredient is used to its full potential. Think elegant yet unfussy plates like clams with lemon and bottarga, or artichoke broth with pickled mussels. The wine list leans towards the organic, the obscure, and the proudly local. A modern taverna in spirit, but with an intellect sharper than the knife on the pass.
Makris
Astiggos 10, Ermou 119, Athens 10555
Makris is Athens’ new fine dining heavyweight, and as of 2024, a proud holder of a Michelin star. The philosophy here is deceptively simple organic produce, sustainable sourcing, and deep respect for Greek tradition, executed with quiet precision. At the helm is chef Petros Dimas, while behind the vision is Kosta Kapetanakis, the man who redefined brunch in Greece when he launched Estrella in Thessaloniki in 2013. With produce from their own farm, the menu reads like a celebration of land and memory, full of reworked classics and contemporary interpretations. This isn’t just a meal. It’s a confident statement that Greek fine dining has entered a new era and it’s doing it on its own terms. Rooftop terrace with Acropolis views and reservations are a must.
Taverna To Spanos
Aristomenous 12, Kato Patissia, Athens 10445
Taverna To Spanos is a masterclass in timeless simplicity. Hidden in plain sight in Kato Patissia, it’s the kind of place where the charcoal speaks louder than the chef. The païdakia (lamb chops) arrive crisp-edged and blistered from the grill, the kokoretsi is perfectly seasoned and fatty in all the right ways, and the snails come cooked in a garlicky, herb-laced oil that begs for bread. No pretence, no reinvention — just the kind of honest, expertly cooked food that reminds you why Greek tavernas don’t need trends. They just need someone who gives a damn.
Bougatsadiko Psirri
Plateia Iroon 1, Athens 10554
@bougatsadiko_psirri
Even bursting at the seams, we made room for this. Creamy semolina bougatsa, flaked to perfection, served hot in the middle of Athens’ most chaotic square. The perfect end-of-night ritual. We shared a beer and a slice while watching the nightlife continue around us, and it might’ve been one of the simplest, most joyful bites of the trip.
A city reimagined
What we witnessed on this journey wasn’t just a food scene in motion, it was a city reclaiming its soul. Across laneways, rooftops, courtyards, and converted workshops, a new generation of chefs, bartenders, and hosts quietly rebuilds Athens from within. They’re not erasing the past. They’re inhabiting it.
Classical apartments once left to crumble have been given new breath with nothing more than thoughtful lighting, clean lines, and reverence for the bones of a space. There’s no glossing over history, only a quiet confidence in its return. These venues feel like the living rooms, balconies, and back kitchens of another time, only now filled with playlists, pet-nats, and people who see no contradiction in serving bougatsa after beetroot tartare.
This is the chic of Athens that sits behind the clichés and beyond the safe warmth of nostalgia. It’s subtle, intelligent, and distinctly Athenian. The kind of charm that doesn’t need to shout. A city that doesn’t have to perform to be loved, because it’s finally loving itself again.
